Free photo or on-site estimate
Photos of the driveway-side wall and the step base are the useful ones.
Chloride does not wash off with good intentions.
Photos of the driveway-side wall and the step base are the useful ones.
Usually priced by elevation, since one wall takes the damage.
Contaminated material comes off to a clean edge in sound coating.
Surface chlorides get washed out rather than sealed in.
Where snow gets piled and what you de-ice with both matter.
Winter photos with the snowbank in frame make the pattern obvious.
The sheltered wall is the control sample for how bad the exposure is.
Removal, substrate rebuild, and recoat itemized separately.
Contaminated coating off, wall flushed and dried, then coated.
Salted snow gets piled against it and melts straight into the coating.
De-icer applied on treads runs off exactly where steps meet the wall.
Plow and traffic spray carries brine onto the foundation all winter.
Ottawa Parging Experts sees a specific pattern of damage on walls that face a driveway or a street, and repairing it properly means dealing with chloride in the wall rather than just recoating what shows. Road salt and de-icing chemicals attack a parge coat and the concrete underneath through several mechanisms at once, which is why a salted wall can look decades older than the identical wall on the sheltered side of the same house.
The first mechanism is more freezing, not less. Salt lowers the freezing point of water, so a salty wall surface cycles through freeze and thaw at temperatures where clean concrete would simply stay frozen and inert. In a market where industry guides already estimate 50 or more freeze-thaw cycles a year, and where roughly 17 nights a year fall to -20°C or colder, adding cycles at the surface is precisely the wrong thing to do to a cement coating.
The second is pressure inside the material. Salt solution drawn into the pores concentrates as water evaporates, and the crystals that form take up more room than the space they grew in. That pressure lifts thin layers off the face of the coat, a pattern usually called scaling, which looks as though the surface has been sanded away in sheets rather than broken out in chunks.
The third is chloride reaching steel. Chlorides travel through concrete and break down the passive layer that normally protects embedded reinforcement. Once a bar begins corroding it expands, and expanding steel pushes concrete off from the inside. On foundation walls, and especially on poured steps, that is how a surface problem turns into a structural one.
Salts are also hygroscopic, meaning they hold onto moisture. A salt-loaded wall stays damp longer after every thaw, which quietly feeds every other failure mode at the same time.
Salt damage is not distributed evenly, and its geography is the easiest way to confirm the cause. The driveway-facing wall takes the worst of it, because salt spread on the driveway ends up in the snowbank sitting against the foundation all winter and then melts straight into the wall. Street-facing walls on a narrow lot take spray thrown by plows and passing traffic on top of that.
The base of steps is the other reliable hot spot, along with the wall directly behind them. Steps get de-iced deliberately and often heavily, and the runoff goes exactly where the step meets the foundation. Garage aprons, walkway edges, and the foot of a basement stairwell see the same thing, and so does any spot where people stamp their boots off before going inside.
Vertically, the damage concentrates in the same 12 to 18 inch band above grade that gives Ottawa homeowners most of their parging trouble, because that is where the snowbank sits, where meltwater runs, and where the wall dries and rewets most often. The most useful comparison you can make is with the back of the house. If the sheltered elevation is intact while the driveway side has scaled, pitted, and shed its coat, you are looking at chloride exposure rather than a bad original application.
A salt damaged coat cannot be topped up, because the material still on the wall is loaded with chloride and will keep working on itself and on anything applied over it. We remove the affected coating fully, back to a clean edge in sound material, then wash the exposed substrate to flush surface chlorides out and let it dry rather than sealing contamination in behind a fresh finish.
What comes next depends on what removal reveals. Scaled but solid concrete can be cleaned and recoated directly. Deep pitting, lost mortar joints, or eroded block face shells get rebuilt first, and any corroded steel we find gets exposed properly, cleaned, and treated before mortar goes back over it.
For the new coat on a salt-exposed wall we use polymer-modified, fibre-reinforced cement parging, which is denser and far more resistant to chloride and freeze-thaw than a plain mix. On walls that stay wet through the season, or that have already failed twice in the same spot, flexible acrylic parging is often the better answer because it tolerates moisture and movement instead of resisting them.
We will also tell you the parts that are not our work but will decide how long the repair lasts. Shovelling snow away from the driveway-side wall instead of piling it against the foundation, switching the steps to sand or a non-chloride product, and getting meltwater away from the base of the wall all cut the chloride load the new coat has to survive.
Because salt damage tends to hit one elevation hard and leave the others alone, pricing usually follows that wall rather than the whole house. Localised scaling at the base of steps or a single damaged section runs $300 to $600. A driveway-facing wall with scaling along its length, some pitting, and coating loss typically falls between $600 and $1,500. Where substrate has to be rebuilt over a large area, or the elevation needs stripping and recoating end to end, expect $1,500 to $6,000. A full perimeter recoat is $15 to $30 per linear foot, roughly $2,250 to $4,500 on a typical 150 linear foot home.
Everything here cures above freezing, so damage found in February gets scheduled into the spring through fall season, about 158 frost-free days from late April into early October. Winter is still a good time to have it looked at, since the snowbank and the salt line are visible and the pattern is at its most obvious. A free on-site or photo estimate gets you a written quote within 24 hours, and a rebuilt coat on a wall where the salt load is managed should give you in the range of 10 to 25 years.
Because that elevation is the one collecting chloride. Salted snow gets shovelled against it, melts into the coating, and refreezes there. The sheltered wall makes a useful control sample: same house, same age, same mix, far less damage.
Yes. Meltwater carrying dissolved de-icer runs off the treads and lands where the steps meet the wall, which is why the base of steps and the wall directly behind them are usually the worst spots on the property.
Plain sand adds traction without any chemical load and is the safest option beside a foundation. Non-chloride products are gentler than rock salt but still add moisture and cycling, so keeping the quantity down near the wall matters more than the brand.
Flushing removes surface chloride, which is worth doing before recoating, but salt that has travelled deep into the pore structure does not rinse back out. That is why heavily contaminated coating gets removed rather than washed and reused.
It matters more than almost anything else you control. A salted snowbank against the wall holds chloride-rich meltwater in the splash zone for months and keeps that band cycling through freeze and thaw while the rest of the wall stays dry.