Free photo or on-site estimate
Photos of the lifted edges and the fallen plates help.
Bond failure gets treated at the bond line.
Photos of the lifted edges and the fallen plates help.
Priced on the hollow area, not just the fallen area.
We tap section by section and mark every drummy spot.
Whatever blocked the original bond comes off the substrate.
New work stops on coating that is genuinely stuck.
Close-ups of a broken edge show the thickness and the back face.
Tapping finds every hollow section, including the ones still attached.
Scope set by what reads hollow, not by what has fallen.
Loose plates off, substrate opened up, fresh coat keyed in.
Dust, form release, or a slick troweled face left nothing to grip.
The coat bonds to the paint film, and the film peels under the weight.
Water trapped behind the coat freezes and levers it off the wall.
Ottawa Parging Experts separates flaking parging from every other coating problem with one test, and it decides how the repair is scoped: tap the wall. A flaking coat is still hard. Knock on it with a knuckle or the handle of a screwdriver and you hear a drummy, hollow note wherever the coating has separated from the foundation behind it. Pieces come away in plates, sometimes the size of a playing card, sometimes a full sheet the size of a serving tray, and the back of each plate is smooth and clean. That clean back is the whole story. The material never failed. The joint between the material and the wall did.
This is why flaking gets misread so often. The piece that comes off in your hand still looks like perfectly good parging, so the natural assumption is that it just needs sticking back on. In reality the section still attached beside it is usually in the same condition, only a few months behind. Tapping across the whole wall shows how much has already let go, and that mapped area, rather than the visible damage, is the true size of the job.
The edges are worth reading too. Bond failure spreads outward from a starting point, so the live edge of a flaked area is a slightly raised lip you can catch a fingernail under. A dormant area has edges that are feathered, dirty, and blunt. Fresh lips mean the failure is still moving.
Bond failure almost always traces back to what happened before the coating went on. Parging holds onto concrete or block through mechanical grip and through suction into the surface. If the wall was dusty, still carried form release from the pour, had a slick troweled face, or was bone dry when the coat was applied, that grip was weak from the first day. It can hold for years and still be a joint waiting for a reason to open.
Paint is the second cause we find regularly in Ottawa. A previous owner or contractor paints a foundation to tidy it up, and later somebody parges over the paint. Cement parging cannot bond through a paint film. It bonds to the paint, and the paint holds onto the wall with far less strength than the coating weighs. Sealers and old masonry waterproofing coatings behave the same way.
The third cause is water pushing from behind. Moisture moving out of a foundation has to leave through the wall face, and when the coating is less permeable than the concrete, pressure builds at the joint. Freezing turns that pressure into a wedge. With 50 or more freeze-thaw cycles a year estimated for this market, and around 17 nights annually at -20°C or colder, a thin film of trapped water at the bond line gets to lever the coat off the wall dozens of times a season. That is why flaking concentrates in the splash zone 12 to 18 inches above grade, where the wall stays wettest longest.
Every loose plate has to come off, including the parts that have not fallen yet. We sound the wall by tapping it section by section, mark everything that reads hollow, then take that material back to an edge where the remaining coat is genuinely attached. Cutting a clean edge matters, because a feathered edge run over a hollow area just becomes the next thing to lift.
The exposed substrate then gets prepared rather than simply dusted off. That means removing paint, sealer, or any residue that caused the original failure, opening up a slick surface so the new coat has something to key into, and pre-dampening the wall so it does not pull the water out of the fresh mix before it can cure. Prep is most of the labour on a flaking job, and it is the part that decides whether the repair is still there in ten years.
We recoat with a polymer-modified, fibre-reinforced cement parging, which grips harder and flexes further than a plain mix. Where the cause was moisture pushing outward, or where the wall stays damp right through the season, flexible acrylic parging is usually the right call because it moves with the wall instead of levering itself off. Where the reason a wall is wet is fixable, such as a downspout dumping at a corner or soil sloping back toward the house, we say so, because the best bond available will not outlast a wall that never dries.
Because sounding almost always finds more loose area than the eye does, flaking repairs tend to price a step above what homeowners expect from looking at the wall. A single lifted section on an otherwise solid elevation runs $300 to $600. A wall with several drummy areas typically lands between $600 and $1,500. When tapping shows most of the coat has let go, the honest answer is a full recoat rather than a patchwork of repairs, and that runs $1,500 to $6,000 depending on the size of the house and the state of the substrate underneath. Priced across the perimeter, a full recoat is $15 to $30 per linear foot, or about $2,250 to $4,500 on a typical 150 linear foot home.
Above-freezing temperatures are needed for a new coat to cure, so this work runs spring through fall across an Ottawa frost-free season of roughly 158 days, late April into early October. A free on-site or photo estimate gets you a written quote within 24 hours. If the loose area is small, stable, and sitting above the splash zone, we will tell you it can wait rather than sell you a wall you do not need done yet, and a properly rebonded coat should last in the range of 10 to 25 years.
Because the material is fine and the joint behind it is not. A drummy note means there is an air gap between the coating and the foundation, so that section has already debonded even though it has not fallen yet.
No. The back of the plate and the face of the wall are both contaminated, and the reason the joint opened is still there. Reattaching a piece hides the cause and buys a few months at most.
Any paint or sealer under the area being recoated has to come off, yes. Cement parging cannot bond through a film, so leaving it in place guarantees the new coat repeats the failure.
All of it. We cut back to an edge where the remaining coat is solidly attached, because a new coat feathered over a hollow section simply becomes the next piece to lift.
Usually. A raised edge lets water straight into the gap, and freezing there widens the debonded area. If the edges are feathered, dirty, and unchanged over a couple of years, it is more likely dormant and can wait.